Dover Castle

The day we went to Dover was the first time I had really driven in the UK. We had picked up the car the day before, but driven immediately to the parking lot in Canterbury; we wanted to get an early start the next day and the rental agency didn't open until nine. I won't pretend I wasn't nervous; even though I probably over-prepared by reading the entire UK Highway Code prior to leaving the US, knowing in theory how to drive on the opposite side of the road and actually doing it are two very different things. It was a strange feeling to have to consciously think about every single turn and road sign. Thankfully after a couple days something just clicked and it became as instinctual as driving here in the US, but that first drive from Canterbury to Dover was pretty nerve-wracking.  That first view of the Castle, though, looking out over the English Channel, though--completely worth it. 

The hill on which Dover Castle sits has been a military stronghold for centuries because of its natural defenses: high chalk cliffs rising above the English Channel allows for a view all the way to France on a clear day. The city was a major military port during the Roman occupation, though it was then called Dubris, and a lighthouse surviving from the first century is the tallest Roman structure in England. The castle itself dates to 1066, the year of the Norman Conquest--one of the first built by William the Conqueror, though it really began to take shape under Henry II--and was used as a military base through WWII. If you're looking for a place with an expansive history, it's hard to beat Dover Castle. 

I've always been more into medieval history (and pre-medieval) than modern history, so even though I had been to Dover Castle before, I had never gone into the WWII tunnels. We had previously watched a documentary about Dover Castle, and Tyler really wanted to do the tour, so that was our first stop (the tours fill up really quickly!) and it ended up being one of my favorite parts of the day Photography wasn't allowed, so I don't have any photos from that portion of the day, but it's definitely a must-see if you're ever visiting. Afterward we headed into the castle keep, where we spent the bulk of the morning. Many castles across England ultimately became used as private residences, and were increasingly modernized to reflect this; however, Dover Castle was always first and foremost a military stronghold, which meant a much more stark view of "necessary modern conveniences." There was also an expansive restoration when the castle passed to the care of English Heritage, so when you enter the gates, it truly feels like stepping back in time into a medieval castle. One area of the castle has been furnished as it might have been during the reign of Henry II, but most of the castle is empty, leaving it up to you to imagine what it might have felt like to walk the halls hundreds of years ago. 

After climbing to the top of the castle to look out over Dover and the English Channel, we took a stroll to the nearby Saxon church, St. Mary in Castro, and Roman lighthouse I mentioned above. Though the church has had numerous rebuilds and restorations, the door arch is said to be the oldest standing in England. I could have stayed all day, but I was also excited about the next town on our itinerary, so we said goodbye to windy Dover and headed back inland toward Rye.